Friday, February 12, 2010

Sundays Around Doon - Dhanolti

God has his own work timings. Not like our 9-5 schedule. Moreover, we can’t blame him if he chooses to shower us with rain, snowfall and pounding hail, just when we thought the summers were here. That’s the damage we have done to the ecological system. So squarely, the blame is on us too. So we go through the entire winters dry like a desert, and then pat comes the rain. But as human beings, we’ve got this ingenious habit of turning everything into opportunity. So why not enjoy the snowfall and make good use of the extended weekend!

Doonites have two favorite places to catch the snow. The masses ofcourse go to Mussoorie. And the more adventurous and resourceful go further to Dhanolti. I’m not saying there is any comparison between the two. But it’s Dhanolti that undoubtedly offers the most pristine surroundings, the most picturesque views of snow-capped peaks, and the finest Deodar slopes.
It’s just 60-65 kms away from Dehradun (30kms from Mussoorie), depending on where you start from, and which route you take. One could go via Mussoorie, facing the steep uphill road to Landour, or take a diversion approx 8kms before Mussoorie and catch the bypass road just above the road going to Barlowganj. Freshly made, this road is a better alternative for those aiming straight at Dhanolti and offers a thrilling drive along the forest. It meets the Mussoorie-Dhanolti-Tehri road at Bataghat. A few kilometers ahead is Buranskhanda, where in March-April one encounters the hills flush with Rhododendrons (Burans is the local name) that make the hills seem on fire. There is also a cut in the ridge here that allows one to spot the neat, long range of snow-capped peaks, along with hot steaming tea served by the lone tea stall at this point. And a few kms ahead, we reach Dhanolti.

Dhanolti is a roughly 2 kilometre patch on the road that runs along the ridge from Mussoorie to Chamba. The actual village being away from the road, there are a few houses and hotels that occupy the most of the concrete mass here.  The most outstanding feature of Dhanolti is its thick forest line of Deodars, Oak and Rhododendrons along the road. It offers the most scenic walks that one can enjoy in the hills. Park your vehicles along the road near the Eco Park that has come up recently or at the MDDA parking down the road. Frankly, despite the Eco Park logo, it has tea stalls selling tea in plastic cups, cement blocks sculpted like wood, and reminders of artificial human intervention in the name of dustbins, cemented floors etc. all huddled together on a narrow patch of slope. Those who have been coming to Dhanolti for decades like me still remember the solitary quietness one enjoyed just walking along these very slopes or sitting under the trees and watching the valleys unfold. A much better spot still virgin is the slopes at the back of the GMVN Rest House or the ones uphill after the Rest House. Enjoy it before another ‘Park’ comes up.

The few hotels here are spaced out, with the GMVN Tourist Rest House and the Forest Bungalow being close together. The small bazaar here offers basic necessities and good sumptuous food. Dhanolti is ideal for those who love be among nature, take a good long walk and read a book under the trees or just gaze at the peaks and valleys for hours.
Hurry up, or the snow will melt. Happy snow-balling!

Him Ahuja is an avid traveler and runs a travel blog called allhimalaya.com


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